Haroldo Burle Marx (Brazilian, 1911–1991), Necklace with Pendant/Brooch and Ring, 1960s–70s, gold, aquamarine

Audio Description

Haroldo Burle Marx, a Brazilian jeweler, designed this necklace and ring in the 1960s or 1970s. He lived from 1911–1991.

This necklace and ring are made of yellow gold that is finely etched on the surface to create a matte finish. The necklace itself is round, growing wide at the sides and narrower at the back and front. The pendant is oblong in shape. Surrounded by a gold frame, a blue-green aquamarine bulges out of the setting with an abstract design carved in it. The ring is similar, also using a blue-green aquamarine, which is oblong in shape.

Label Copy

Haroldo Burle Marx, a Brazilian jeweler, designed this necklace and ring in the 1960s or 1970s. He lived from 1911–1991.

The minimalist jewelry of Haroldo Burle Marx is sophisticated, elegant, and timeless. While there is a sense of the ancient in his work, Burle Marx denied that he was influenced by antiquity; he only looked forward. His inspiration came entirely from a love of the natural beauty of Brazil, his native country. The variously colored stones chosen for his jewelry—aquamarines, citrines, opals, amethysts, and topaz—are all abundant there.

An innovator, Burle Marx developed the forma livre or free-form cut—exemplified in this necklace and ring. Through careful cutting, the stones are transformed into abstract organic sculptures that bulge upwards out of their settings. The delicate finish of the gold was created by using a particular alloy along with finely engraved crosshatchings on the surface. Designing and overseeing the production himself, Burle Marx’s jewelry was formed by hand by expert gem cutters, goldsmiths, and engravers, making each work unique.

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